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Are Micro Diameter Arrows Worth All The Hub Bub?

5.8K views 73 replies 48 participants last post by  Hlzr  
#1 ·
Hi all,

Trying to find a new arrow to shoot as I am moving up to 70lbs of Draw Weight and my current arrows won't cut it spine wise. Are the Micro Diameter arrows worth it? I would have to buy all new field points and broad heads if I swapped from a standard arrow to the micro diameter, correct? Any information would be wonderful as it's honestly overwhelming with my lack of knowledge on arrows or their brands.

Thank you.
 
#2 ·
204 is a nice diameter to play with. Going with hit inserts and collars give you a ton of options for insert weight and are a bullet proof system for your broadhead point connection and you can still shoot standard points. Easy to got from 15 grain inserts to well over 150 grain inserts. Look at Easton, iron will and ethics for hit inserts and collars.


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#3 · (Edited)
Its really easy. The micro arrows are .166 in inside diameter. The outside dimension will vary with the spine, because the wall thickness will vary,rendering the outside a little different diameter, larger for the heavier spines. But basically the arrows will be about 1/4" in OD. They must use an outsert system to accommodate the 8/32" thread on all standard components, and the basic 5/16 OD of broadheads. These arrows must be stepped up to fit the components that fit the industry standard arrow that is .245ID and about .293 to .300 outside...or 5/16". So...this is where the "outsert" comes in. You can use the manufacturers outsert, and sometimes they offer more than one. And there are some companies that make aftermarket outsert systems, you just have to be careful to make sure you are getting the right size to fit the outside diameter to fit your particular arrow.
The exception to this is the Easton Deep six insert they offer which is a smaller thread, and does require a different broadhead, if you want to research that fine, but to minimize the confusion leave it out for now.

These outserts are the biggest source of complaints. They basically work fine, but occasionally if you strike something hard especially at an angle, they can bend. To me its infrequent enough to discount, but it's a big deal to some. So, they will either not use them, or seek out a full stainless steel outsert, or just a system that they is more durable than possibly the one which comes with the arrow. AND...sometimes guys want to customize the weight, so they will use an aftermarket which is heavier than possibly the one that came with the arrow. This can all get really expensive.

If you want to try some to get your feet wet. I would recommend just buying a couple and shoot them for a while to see what you think. Use the standard components that come with it to save on cost. If you are one of the fortunate souls that has a pro shop near you that stocks and builds micros, just have them put together a couple . If not, Lancaster's will sell individual arrows of some if not most arrow shafts. I would say buy a couple of the cheaper ones to see what its all about. Typically like the .005 to .006 straightness. Gold tip's micro is the Kinetic" Pierce". They also make a Kinetic which is .204 ID, the "Pierce" designates the .166 . The Pierce Platinum is the straighter one, the standard Kinetic Pierce is .006. It cost about 11 bucks for a shaft,comes with the nock and outsert system, which theirs is an insert with a collar that slides over it, two piece. But these are shafts and need fletched, so if you need to buy fletched arrows you will have to buy 6 minimum I think. That makes your experiment more of an investment. If you can fletch so much the better, having them cut is cheap, and they will install components for a little, or ship them loose. You tell them to cut them to a specific length and then you just have to fletch and install the components. Or buy 6 complete arrows....and just start shooting.

Are they worth it....well. For long range especially in wind, some, especially if built right. For penetration, well....maybe a little. And to me its not about the shaft presents less friction because of its diameter, its a physics thing, where the energy and mass are focused more inline directly behind the point of the head. Is it real? I think so...is it a big factor? Well.....if you build a really good weighted and balanced standard arrow, and a crappy micro...I would rather have the standard well built. But a really well built and weighted micro has some merit. But Its not the type of thing where you should be bragging my arrow is better than your fat old arrow.

Anybody, and I mean anybody can make an argument not to use them and it would have validity. But I am one of those guys who will try most anything. And I have every size hunting arrow, and don't really hate or love any of them more than another.It's my harem. I have multiple bows, and I will set one up with micros and one with .204 ID's and one with Easton H and maybe one with standard diameter. Use one in the morning and one in the afternoon. And yes....I am a nut.... a harmless one....but a nut. Not a " hold my beer" type so much, just a " so what will this do" type.

Victory offers the "VAP"
Gold tip the "Kinetic Pierce"
Easton the 4MM Axis long range
Black Eagle the "Deep Impact" and the "X impact"
And their are many more in the Easton line in the target style, and more manufacturers and ....this is just a few

You need to figure out what weight you want to shoot, and about what FOC. This can have some bearing on the one you select, some are heavier than others, in the same spine. And some have heavier outserts than others.

So if you say I want a 500 grain arrow with about 14 percent FOC....then you can pick a shaft and components to make that happen, or at least get close.

If I just wanted to drop some coin, and was a serious big game hunter. I would give some serious consideration to the Victory VAP SS. That has a stainless steel weave in the arrow, it will be tough as all get out, and has a weight that will render a mass, that if the concentrated energy thing has some merit, it should up the game a little, but expensive.

I do not try to talk anyone over to any particular size, I just try to tell you about whatever you inquire about. I do think for most people who really have no interest in anything but the most practical, stay with standard. But if you like to play around with stuff I think its fun . The .204 size is good too. But I like my micro .166 too.

You have to bury your nose in each manufacturers info to begin to see what they have and what they have to offer.
 
#4 ·
5mm seems to be the gold standard of the smaller than standard diameter arrow shafts. 4mm gets kind of weird because you start dealing with outserts and I don't think you're really gaining enough to go there. IDK, I could be way off. I'd like to see what others think.
 
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#6 ·
This is something that I have considered as well, but for trad bows. I shot someone else's longbow + micro arrow setup and it was amazing how the bow "came alive" when I switched to the micros after shooting a few regular arrows through it first. It felt sluggish with the regulars, and much more snappy with the micros. That might have been due to a difference in weight and spine (I have no idea what the weight/spine was).

Arrow weight and spine aside, in theory you should be able to get more speed per pound of draw weight downrange since micros have less wind resistance, and that's an even bigger deal for trad since you'd typically shoot lower draw weights and have less speed compared to a compound of the same draw weight. It also helps bring the arrow closer to center-shot, since most stick bows are cut either to-center or less, meaning the smaller your arrow is, the closer it brings you to actual center.

But the real question is whether or not it's worth it. There doesn't seem to be any "budget" micro arrows. The micro components are more expensive and harder to find as well. I still can't find many people who can definitively say that it made much of a difference in the end-results. I personally am still interested in trying them if I can get a good deal on some, but I don't think I'd dive head first into it and buy a full dozen just because it sounds good on paper.
 
#8 ·
worrying about shaft diameter is not really as relevant for hunting as some people make it. Especially considering the cutting width of a broadhead is considerably larger than any arrow shaft. Most people don’t understand how tissue works. Tissue has an elasticity to it and tends to pull apart when cut. I am more concerned with having sharp broadheads that limit the amount of clotting agents released in the blood when the animal is shot.
 
#17 ·
Exactly. The only exception could be on bone but even THEN your broad head tip design is still going to be the deciding factor.......at least much more of a factor than minor changes in shaft OD. The big ones are TAW and broad head design........you can play with FOC and shaft OD and all but those are like fad diets...........we ALL know if you don't eat so much you loose weight but it doesn't sell...............lol....plus is harder.

With arrows people want to shoot a super light fast arrow and still get optimum penetration......all these gimmicks stem from that fad diet success IMO. Also when people get that light little fast small OD and then blow REALLY deep into their foam target and it takes a gorilla and arrow lube to get it out they think they really nailed it.......max penetration, baby. But that foam is lying to you almost as much as the people selling you the new arrows to replace the perfectly goods one in your quiver.

Even the wind cross section thing is moot IMO. The fletching's and the broad head are going to catch much more win than the shaft OD. Now if you have a mechanical with hardly any exposed blades, very small fletching's (because of that) and then a small OD I'll bite that the effects of crosswinds would be reduced.

Last most broad heads have ferrules larger than the shaft so even if the shaft is small that ferrule still has to make a bigger hole than the shaft....regardless of the blade width........that goes for outserts as well. If you drill a 7/32 hole in a piece of would and then drop a smaller 3/16 bit through that hole it won't have any drag, right? Say yes.....we all know the answer.
 
#11 ·
OP, since you mentioned broad heads, I assume these shafts will be used for hunting. NO (unless maybe you hunt out west with very long shots in the wind), IMO they are not worth it,e half outs are a PITA, I have bent many and they are expensive. Since most Deer are shot under 20 yards, wind is not an issue. For long range field or 3D they are very nice, but I use a glue in point. I use a 6MM shaft (Easton Hexx) as a compromise, as it is the smallest diameter that does not require a half out. The 1 MM smaller (5MM) difference for hunting is not worth the problems that accompany the half outs (they bend, most are hard to pull from targets especially bag types, and extra expense.
 
#12 ·
I think something from Black Eagle is where I would start. Probably be the easiest as far as getting componentry to fit well. The Pierce is a great shaft but it is very tough to get everything lined up to spin perfectly. If you wanted the best system for hunting I don't think you can beat the Snyder Core system.
 
#14 ·
Simple answer, no. I have been down the skinny and micro road, wish I could have back all the money I spent “ experimenting “ with them. Wind, penetration all that is so close it’s almost undetectable ( and I live in the west, wind is really no more a factor with std shafts then micro) if ones better then the other. Skinnier shafts, we’re not nearly as durable in the long run, and some a pain the a&&& to deal with. But if in your mind, you think they make you shoot better, then there’s nothing wrong with that either. They are kinda like reinventing the wheel with them, and of course tying to get deeper in our pockets, trying to convince us they are better, marketing at its best is really all it is.
 
#18 ·
I’m still using the Easton Injections with deep six and QAD Exodus broad heads. The new replacement would be Axis LongRange. But I live out west, every year I hunt antelope, it’s always windy (idk what a calm day of hunting is), etc. So for me the 4mm is worth it. But if I was just Timber hunting or tree stand hunting. I would not spend the money on them. Just like bows; arrows are no different. Wide variety to accommodate different types of bow hunting.
 
#19 ·
I like .166 arrows other than sometimes getting components can be a pain. I set my deep impacts up and some injexions using gold tips insert and ballistic collar system that they use in the pierce arrows. I have found in most cases they spin better on my spinner and overall straighter at least in my experience
 
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#20 ·
As mention not worth the Money! The HIT Easton Insert is Junk! I bought some FMJ's when they first came out from a "Pro Shop" and had them cut and Inserts installed after maybe 4 months 3 of the Hit Inserts were pushed into the shaft and They were only shoot into a Bag Target so why would they when the Easton Special Insert Glue was used! Many here suggest you cpould replace the Insert But with the glue inside the FMJ some said you could push them Out Wrong! I stopped using these and gone back to my prior arrow and never looked back as I had been shooting 2514 XX75 and XX78 and Never concerned about shaft diameter as the 2514 is huge over these Micro Arrow Shafts does not matter which one. No Need for any Kind of Broadhead Collar and with the collar on my 2514 never had any issue with a BH pushing back in the Shaft. And I always got Complete Pass Thru's as other Mention also is a FADE and HYPE sad that some think Change is better how did many years prior to "carbon arrows" get the shot and take an animal with just an Aluminum Arrow or even a Wood Arrow?. What Got Easton to where they are was the Aluminum Arrow. But that was before the Easton Family's Son took over and he pushed out what got them to where thy were to all these Arrows Just similar Carbon or Carbon Aluminum Arrow just with a Different Model name or color to grab some interest as each has their model name what difference does it matter. Carbon is Carbon or Carbon core with aluminum exterior small is weaker. And Lets not add the fact that the Tolerances are less and Carbon Cracks and get damaged easier not seen that with any XX75 or X78. Even with complete past thru's I can reuse these arrows not bent or dented nothing! And are the Correct Spine for my Set Up!
But I am in the minority as I could care less about the Fade or Hype I Use what Works! and the XX75 & XX78 has done the Job for my 30 plus years as a Bow Hunter!
LFM
 
#21 ·
I just bought a dozen XX75 just because I wanted to see if I could tell a difference between them and my Victory VAP. For my usage and skill, I haven’t been able to tell any difference except that the XX75s are much easier to remove from my target. If all continues this way, these will be my hunting arrows in the fall.
 
#22 ·
I've been hesitant to jump into the micro game because, for a time, the component systems weren't the greatest. That said, we continue to see innovations in that space as the market demand has increased for .166. From a hunting standpoint, .204 had blown through everything I've shot and so did .246 for that matter. Another thing, and I have a habit of someone saying something sticking with me, I've heard said that the .166 can be less forgiving as it's easier to be just off center with your nock travel on a micro than it is on a .204 or .246. I know there's plenty of guys out there shooting .166 with success, but that's one thing that has helped keep me from trying the micros.
 
#23 ·
Outserts & & BH that have any other thread than the 8/32 SUCK & are not worth the extra cost & effort in making the arrow up so all the components fit & are stright. all you hear is that the outserts are bent all the time. Save your money & stay with shafts that will accept 8/32 inserts so you don't have to buy the expensive broadheads with the smaller thread size. Have hunted all over the west & Alaska in the last 60+ years & have never found a need for any thing other than the regular 8/32 insert.
 
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#24 ·
This is wonderful. I really do appreciate all of you taking the time to school me with your knowledge. Yes I will be hunting, Just bought a V3X 29 and want to make a bulletproof system. I hunt Texas public land in a saddle so shots won't be far, 40 yards MAX. I'll stick with the standard diameter arrow.

Thank you all for the information. I really appreciate it.
 
#25 ·
I shoot vap SS
I like there half out and have yet to have one bend
I don’t feel penetration is any different but I do feel for longer shots in wind they perform better
 
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#26 ·
Easton Axis arrows with the HIT insert are very durable. You need to square the arrow shaft but other than that I have had zero issues with these. The comment prior about the HIT insert being junk is just lack of experience on the part of whoever assembled them. I would only shoot normal diameter arrows with a standard type insert or something with a HIT. half outs are trash in my opinion. No matter how strong of a material they are, they will bend at some point.
 
#28 ·
Hi all,

Trying to find a new arrow to shoot as I am moving up to 70lbs of Draw Weight and my current arrows won't cut it spine wise. Are the Micro Diameter arrows worth it? I would have to buy all new field points and broad heads if I swapped from a standard arrow to the micro diameter, correct? Any information would be wonderful as it's honestly overwhelming with my lack of knowledge on arrows or their brands.

Thank you.
I think they can help in certain niches, if you have marginal energy or shoot a lot in the wind, they may offer a marginal increase in performance

for most of us, I don’t think they are worth dealing with… they are a little harder to fletch, but their biggest downfall is components… I think if you shoot the iron will or Valkyrie components, there is no downside, ethics are not bad either, but in general, micros are more trouble than they’re worth

if I ever shoot micros again, it will be with the iron will or Valkyrie components… I’m hoping my wife’s shoulder that she has had surgery on will hold up to shooting, if it does, when she works up to 50#, she will be shooting micros with the Valkyrie system, or iron will… I may switch to one of those options for my recurves too… only way I will personally consider them again… I shot them for a couple years, and tried many components and they all relatively sucked

you will hear people claim they shoot micros and never had issues, maybe I’m just super unlucky, because any durability testing results in a wobble best case, and failure more often, and that’s with a 54# recurve (low energy)